Taureg
energy metered over the Capri stage last Thursday night in Marfa as
the motor coach traveling Bedoiun band “Tinariwen” pumped the
sound of a different desert into the West Texas air. Surreal, at
times you expected the six man band to drop their electric guitars,
pull off their kufeyas and reveal L.A. smiles, but the music, strange
and bent was too far out to be a charade.
They
call it “Desert Blues” but you didn’t hear a turn-around, no 12
bars to rely on for your dance rhythm – this was different, like 11
beats to a measure if anybody was counting. At times there was a riff
you might nail, Almond Bros? Stevie Ray Vaughn? – But like a North
African sirocco it was gone with the wind into the strange.
A
consciousness mulled in their beat – distinct from much American
hip-swaying, sex-drive pump. Tinariwen’s was blue nights, blue
stars, but not the blues we know – happy, sad and hypnotic at
times. Hands at their side, they received their praise with apparent
aplomb but their eyes told us “it is good.” Steel balls on
ceramic occasionally feathered the beat in a wavy motif and the bass
player charmed some songs with a one-two that captured a sitar like
buzz, perhaps a root that checked their music in the dry white
Sahara.
In
Mali, the founder of the band, Ibrahim Ag Alhabib witnessed his
Taureg rebel father’s execution in 1963 after a failed coup d’tat.
The family fled to the vast expanse of the open desert sojourning in
the shadow of sand dunes, along ancient camel-hoofed trade routes
south of the Atlas Mountains. Refugee camps sprung up in southern
Libya as Taureg clans and others from neighboring countries took
advantage of Muammar al-Gaddafi’s apparent generosity. The band
members met in these camps in 1979 and soon became known as “Kel
Tinariwen” a Tamashek phrase meaning “Desert Boys”. Playing
Tuareg and Arab pop at the refugee camps, they began to explore
“chaabi” protest music of Morocco, Algerian pop-rai and later
Presley, Santana, Led Zepplin, Boney M, Marley and Hendrix. They
gained international recognition in 2000, won Germany’s prestigious
Praetorius Music Award in 2008 and have toured and released a number
of CD’s including their latest “Tassili”.
Outside
the gabion-walled Capri courtyard a slick motor coach await these
Bedouin musicians. The Tuareg tour on. Other great music towns
beacon outside the desert: New Orleans, Atlanta, London
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